Butter – Chicago, IL
A newcomer to the Chicago scene, this two-story restaurant in Greektown is headed by another young chef alumnus from The French Laundry, the 28-year-old Chicago native Ryan Poli, who also trained at Spain’s La Broche. Chef Poli isn’t focused on manipulating or creating new flavors; he favors simplicity. Along those lines, the restaurant features an extensive raw bar along with a menu divided into sections such as “And then there was lite,” with artfully presented small dishes of foes gras or risotto with melon and prosciutto; “From the land” and “From the sea” feature rabbit, pork tenderloin, and cod and halibut. Like the patrons, the space is hip, sexy, and decorated in hot colors; Don’tspend too much time wondering about the restaurant’s name, as there’s not an abundance of its use: It could be shorthand for “It’s like buttah.” Be warned, or be part of it: As the night wears on, the upstairs bar/lounge gets loud.

Ryan Poli has long ago left this restaurant. It should no longer be on this list, assuming it ever should have been.

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