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May 25 2006, 8:31 PM EDT Gourmand

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Jean Georges – New York City
The flagship restaurant of chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten is located on the ground floor of The Trump International Hotel and Tower, but there’s no Trumpian bluster here: Jean Georges is an understated, elegant jewelbox for the chef’s spectacular culinary creations. At last count, Vongerichten owns 17 restaurants around the world, eight of them in New York City, but Jean Georges is where he truly defines his style: Ingredients that do not necessarily blend together to create new tastes, but remain separate flavors that follow one another like notes in music. There are Asian influences (sea trout sashimi draped in trout eggs!) and plenty of herb-infused oils, infusions, emulsions. The restaurant is quiet, as befits a temple of worship. Bargain hunters: There is a lovely, three-course $24.07 prix fixe lunch, which is available year-round, Monday through Saturday.

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